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RSS >  Building Point Model for 1st time - advice needed.
Tomiam #1 26/05/2008 - 15h44

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Hiya all,

First off - thank you VERY much for releasing this free!!  Ive seen the you tube videos etc and have been very impressed by Freetrack.

Im planning on making a 3 LED Cap and need an experts help to ensure Im doing the right thing here.  Ive read through these forums and have put together a list of what I need.  I do have some questions, which Ive listed below in bold.  To help, Ive also provided links to all the parts Im planning on using.

Battery Pack - with two 1.2V Rechargeable AA batterys.
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=5123580

Infrad Red LEDs
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=0585236A
Note, I had two options for these. This one with an 80 degree viewing angle) and another with 20 degree viewing angle. I thought the 80 degree would be the better.
Am I right in saying that the
a) LED Led forward voltage is 1.5 V
b) Led forward current is 100 mA



According to the resistor wizard that means I would need (see link) three resistors, each with an individual value of 9.1 Ohms 5%?
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=0150795


Any help very much welcomed and appreciated :)
lilpunk1302 #2 26/05/2008 - 15h54

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That's correct :)

But just to be on the safe side, I would recommend getting 10ohms.

And there's a way to convert that to a single LED running from your power source, but I can't remember the formula, I'm sure someone else can help you on that one.
Tomiam #3 26/05/2008 - 17h15

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Registered on : 26/05/2008

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Thank you! :)
Bank holiday Monday here in the UK (national holiday) so all the shops are shut.  I shall go and grab the bits n pieces tomorrow :D

When you say single LED - do you mean a single resistor running from one power source?

ie: Power scource to resistor to led to led to led and back?  If so, that would be a lot easier to build. :)
Edited by Tomiam on 26/05/2008 at 17h43.
tristan68 #4 26/05/2008 - 19h47

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Hello Tomiam

If you're using a parallel setup , you have to use 1 resistor per led, thats 3 resistors for the entire setup.

This kind of setup is an error :

Posted Image

Since you can't guarantee each led is EXACTLY the same as the others , and since the voltage/current characteristic of a led REALLY isn't linear, you might get one led driving most of the current.
This led will heat, eventually burn, and then will the 2nd, third , and so on.

As a rule of thumb : leds mounted in a parallel setup NEVER share the same resistor. (the warning applies whatever the number of leds)

This schematic is the correct one , just adjust the resistor values to your desired current :

Posted Image


cya
Tomiam #5 26/05/2008 - 19h53

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Superb!
Thank you both for your info. Im now a LOT more confident about making the right decisions when making the 3 LED cap. :)

Cant wait to make it now, its gonna be awesome! :D

Sincere thanks again :)
tristan68 #6 26/05/2008 - 19h55

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Hello Tomiam

About the SFH485P characteristics :

100 mA is the MAX value , when the led is PCB mounted.
That's not the case when you're building a freetrack setup.

On a freetrack setup , those leds are usually directly soldered on wires.
In this setup , you shouldn't drive them with more than 75mA (OSRAM/SIEMENS specifications).

So for the calcled , you should use to following values :

Setup : 3led cap
Power supply voltage : 2.4 v
Power supply type : batteries
led forward voltage : 1.5 v
led forward current : from 20 to 75 ma, depending on the brightness you're seeking (usually 50mA is more than enough)

cya
tristan68 #7 26/05/2008 - 19h57

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NP Tomiam  :)

Always glad to help

cya
Tomiam #8 29/05/2008 - 21h58

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Registered on : 26/05/2008

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Well..
Spent the evening setting up my G25 and then building a Freetrack cap. :)
Took about 30 mins to get it all set up and calibrated right but WOW!  Simply... WOW!
I dont know how I was playing racing games without it now!  Being able to turn and see the apex coming in is amazing!

Thank you again for the help!
Thank you LOADS for the free software!

Superb!
lilpunk1302 #9 30/05/2008 - 08h56

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tristan68 @ 26/05/2008 - 19h47 a dit:

Hello Tomiam

If you're using a parallel setup , you have to use 1 resistor per led, thats 3 resistors for the entire setup.

This kind of setup is an error :

Posted Image

Since you can't guarantee each led is EXACTLY the same as the others , and since the voltage/current characteristic of a led REALLY isn't linear, you might get one led driving most of the current.
This led will heat, eventually burn, and then will the 2nd, third , and so on.

As a rule of thumb : leds mounted in a parallel setup NEVER share the same resistor. (the warning applies whatever the number of leds)

This schematic is the correct one , just adjust the resistor values to your desired current :

Posted Image


cya




Didn't know that, will retain for future reference.
The calculator tends to spit out both par and serial almost randomly (1.6v is ser, 1.7 is par) So i assumed with the proper calculations it's ok.
tristan68 #10 30/05/2008 - 09h09

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hello lilpunk1302


The calculator tends to spit out both par and serial almost randomly (1.6v is ser, 1.7 is par) So i assumed with the proper calculations it's ok.



The led wizard is done for people who don't have the knowledge to choose which setup is suited for their purpose.

The wizard doesn't tell you the only way to connect leds , for given characteristics, but gives you a sure way to do it.

That means the wizard integrates tresholds to choose which setup is best suited.
So if your values are just under the treshold, the wizard will provide you with a specific setup, and if your values are just over the treshold, the wizard will provide another setup.

I had to integrate those scenarios to be sure to always be on the safe side, which means :

- take care of the component precision and characteristics dispertion.
- try to choose the setup minimizing the dissipated power in the resistor(s)
- try to optimize the setup to lower current in the power supply (in case of battery power).
- compensate for power supply types




To have a setup which suits EXACTLY your needs, the best way is to calculate the setup by hand, and to measure each component value to be sure to work with REAL values.

Hope this explains why and how.


cya

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