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FreeTrack Forum > FreeTrack : English Forum > Support : Tracking System > Head set build and 1/2 & 1/2

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RSS > Head set build and 1/2 & 1/2, Freetrack and TrackClip

Jaeger55	#1 25/02/2014 - 03h19 Top
Class : Apprenti Posts : 21 Registered on : 10/09/2010 Off line	I took the ir filter out of the Logitech webcam 200 I have and it picks up the Ir lights from the piss poor 3 point headset I made. However, the 3 point headset I made is clumsy, bulky, hot and buned out two leds already. What if I just purchased a Track Clip pro for 30 bucks from Track Ir? Will the two work with eachother? Their website says you must have a track ir4 or 5 hardware. Edited by Jaeger55 on 03/03/2014 at 16h18.
Stormrider	#2 25/02/2014 - 16h15 Top
Class : Légende du Forum Posts : 466 Registered on : 02/01/2013 Off line	hot and buned out two leds already. How did you connect it, serial or paralel? You can use this formula to calculate the restore you need: (voltage powersource - amount of leds x forwarding voltage)/ desired current = resistor value powersource= 6V forwarding voltage =1,2V max current= 100mA (6v - 3,6)/80mA=30 ohm Batteries as a powersource works, but it run empty after a while.It is better to look for a powered usb hub or an usb poweradapter.Then you have a steady 5volts What if I just purchased a Track Clip pro for 30 bucks from Track Ir? Will the two work with eachother? Their website says you must have a track ir4 or 5 hardware. The track clip pro seemed to rather breakable.On this forum there are a few posts of people who sell clips they made. That track-ir device is just a sort off webcam. If you want a system that works out of the box, go for track-ir 5, if you are not afraid of some experimenting stay with freetrack(or facetracknoir) You changed your mind about reflective parts on your headset?Now using leds on you headset is okay?
Jaeger55	#3 28/02/2014 - 19h25 Top
Class : Apprenti Posts : 21 Registered on : 10/09/2010 Off line	each led got its own 10 ohm resistor I have to make another trip to radio shack this weekend. Edited by Jaeger55 on 28/02/2014 at 19h27.
Stormrider	#4 28/02/2014 - 20h17 Top
Class : Légende du Forum Posts : 466 Registered on : 02/01/2013 Off line	each led got its own 10 ohm resistor did you connect it like you said in a previous post? Do I go.....battery pack + line to one single resistor then led,led,led to neg line back to battery to complete circuit? If you did and you only used only one 10 ohm resistor, then theer was to much current going trough your setup.If you take one resistor of 30 ohm or three of 10 ohm and you make a serial connection it should not get hot. + battery to 30 resistor(or 3x10 ohm resistor), to + leg led -leg led goes to + leg led - leg goes to + leg led - leg led goes to the negative of your battery pack. like this, they use a different powersource and leds, the values for the resistor is therefor different then in your case. I use a usb backup battery as powersource like this: I doesn't run empty so fast and it is rechargeable and give a steady 5 volt of the usb.
Jaeger55	#5 01/03/2014 - 18h23 Top
Class : Apprenti Posts : 21 Registered on : 10/09/2010 Off line	Im going to start all over again. -- I will use 3 Infrared Leds (radio shack # 276-143) rated at 1.28v and 100mA each that is 3.84v and 300mA total. I have 3 resistors( radio shack # 271-1101) rated at 10 ohm 1/2 w each I have a 6 volt battery pack, but I may switch to a 5v USB power adaptor like in the photo. Seems either way the LED assembly wizzard says to use 3 resistors. Soo.... Power supply into the 3x 10 ohm resisters in a line, to the 3 leds in a line, out to the neg side of the battery or power supply.
Stormrider	#6 01/03/2014 - 19h06 Top
Class : Légende du Forum Posts : 466 Registered on : 02/01/2013 Off line	Power supply into the 3x 10 ohm resisters in a line, to the 3 leds in a line, out to the neg side of the battery or power supply. yes thats right. with the 5 volt setup you need a different resistor value.I always do it like this: I decide what current I need and I calculate the resistor value. Mostly it is not neccesary to use the leds with maximum current.It will only shorten there life.80mA should be enough. with your 6 volt you need 27 ohm to get 80mA.So that 30 ohm is good. With 5 volts you need 14.5 ohm.You can make this(almost) with your 3 resistors of 10 ohm.You just put two resistors paralel and then the last 10 ohm resistor in serie and of course your leds in serie.
Jaeger55	#7 01/03/2014 - 23h18 Top
Class : Apprenti Posts : 21 Registered on : 10/09/2010 Off line	Ok, seems to be working, used the battery type for now. now to tune it in
Jaeger55	#8 03/03/2014 - 05h45 Top
Class : Apprenti Posts : 21 Registered on : 10/09/2010 Off line	Im not getting full range of head movement. When I goto the curves and adjust them, it kinda helps but not full range of movement. Also if I put in a deadzone it kills the movement completely and I have to put it back on linear.
Stormrider	#9 03/03/2014 - 20h01 Top
Class : Légende du Forum Posts : 466 Registered on : 02/01/2013 Off line	as you can see in these curves, in game you can look from 0 degrees to 180 degrees.But you can also see for 180 degrees you need to turn your head something like 50 degrees.If you loose tracking of your dots before that 50 degrees head turn, you can't look 180 degrees in game.You can see for yaw you need to turn your head 20 degrees to get 40 degrees in game. If you work on the curves just enable one axis at a time. for smoothing settings and sensitivity settings try these(these are not my settings, I borrowed it from Steph) : Keep in mind, it takes some time to get used to ir-tracking. And if yourled has got a round top, sometimes you have to file it down to get a better viewing angle. Edited by Stormrider on 03/03/2014 at 21h01.
Jaeger55	#10 03/03/2014 - 23h14 Top
Class : Apprenti Posts : 21 Registered on : 10/09/2010 Off line	A BREAKTHRU !! My problem was in sensitivity! They were all at zero! Ok, I will keep tweeking this and see what happens. Persistance and patience sure pays off in this project! By the way, Im trying to play the Flight sims IL2 1946, Rise of Flight, and Cliffs of Dover. Thanks for you help!
Stormrider	#11 04/03/2014 - 20h01 Top
Class : Légende du Forum Posts : 466 Registered on : 02/01/2013 Off line	By the way, Im trying to play the Flight sims IL2 1946, Rise of Flight, and Cliffs of Dover. IL2 1946 is where I started with, Cliffs of Dover is my real favorite.
Jaeger55	#12 07/03/2014 - 00h09 Top
Class : Apprenti Posts : 21 Registered on : 10/09/2010 Off line	Rise of flight responses are as smooth as silk. Il2 1946 and CloD are a bit more choppy. I assume they can be made smooth and seemless or will there be some jitterness in them? By the way thanks for the help ~S~
Stormrider	#13 07/03/2014 - 18h02 Top
Class : Légende du Forum Posts : 466 Registered on : 02/01/2013 Off line	I assume they can be made smooth and seemless or will there be some jitterness in them? They both can work smooth and seemless.What settings do you use now? What if you just only enable the yaw axis?Does it looks smooth and seamless then? Did you also work on the deadzone at the curves?If you right-click at a curve you select what kind of deadzone you want.(This picture ifs from another post, so ignore the Arrow) Do you have IL2 all patch-up to version 4.12? And Cliffs of Dover do you have the TF-mods installed?
Jaeger55	#14 09/03/2014 - 21h20 Top
Class : Apprenti Posts : 21 Registered on : 10/09/2010 Off line	Yes, TF mods for CloD and 4.12 with sas mods.
Stormrider	#15 13/03/2014 - 12h27 Top
Class : Légende du Forum Posts : 466 Registered on : 02/01/2013 Off line	Hi Jaeger55, did you solve your problems already?

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FreeTrack Forum > FreeTrack : English Forum > Support : Tracking System > Head set build and 1/2 & 1/2

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