> Easy build setup with SFH485P, Anyone can build this ! (for 5v Usb serial build see Page 2)
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Racefreak |
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Class : Apprenti
Posts : 5
Registered on : 14/07/2010
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I just checked my resistors. They are actually 0.33 Ohm. 
As I said before... I AM STUPID!!! Well, at least I bought a handful of the LEDs, so I can try and try again.
Once I'm done and this thing is working it will probably exceed the price of a TrackIR.  |
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Racefreak |
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Class : Apprenti
Posts : 5
Registered on : 14/07/2010
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 IT WORKS!!!
Thanks to benmeijer's brilliant idea, that IR Light cannot be seen by me, I did it!
It works well with Live for Speed, just need to tweak the sensitivity a bit.
Doesn't work with IL2 Sturmovik or Wings of Prey, though.
Any ideas?
Guys I'm so happy, I finally got this thing to work. YEA!!! 
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C6_LeBorgne |
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Class : Beta Tester
Posts : 224
Registered on : 09/08/2007
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For il2 :
Check in conf.ini
[rts]
;ProcessAffinityMask=1
mouseUse=2
joyUse=1
trackIRUse=1
DisableIME=0
locale=fr
C2D 6420 , 2Go DDR II , 570 GTX , Wiimote , A-quip mini BT Dongle , Thrustmaster Warthog , Pro Gamer Command Unit et PCDASH2
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bkwood20 |
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Class : Apprenti
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Registered on : 25/07/2010
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Please help!! I built this thing just like you show with the exception I used 22 Ohm verses 30, and it still doesnt work!
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benmeijer |
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Class : Habitué
Posts : 208
Registered on : 19/07/2008
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The build is really simple:
Parallel build = 3 x
CHECK:
- the visibility of the leds with a digital camera or phone camera, because IR light is invisible.
- that you are using the real SFH485P, because the short leg is on this led is positive.
- the resistance of the resistor you are using (22 ohm carbon) = red-red-black-(gold or silver).
- polarity of battery-holder (red=plus / black = min)
- the quality of your welding ..... no short circuit .... good isolation. |
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benmeijer |
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Class : Habitué
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Registered on : 19/07/2008
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Updated picture of the serial build (on page 2):
new upload, tinypic had removed original picture 7 feb 2011
Updated with more specific info in the picture:
- PTC fuse now optional, and info of I(hold) and I(trip)
- More info of resistor choice.
- More info about the polarity of the LED ( + / - )
- put my name on it! 
If you use a PTC, take in consideration that this component has some initial resistance (3- 5 ohm). If you want 50 mA - subtract this inititial value from the 10 ohm (my advice: use the 6.8 ohm!).
I recommend that you use a PTC if you are using power from PC. But a PTC fuse is hard to get (in normal stores), so forget it and use an external USB power supply (7.50 euro's). |
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dewey1 |
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Class : Habitué
Posts : 191
Registered on : 25/06/2010
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Ben;
Very good pictorial now!
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alfwok |
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Class : Apprenti
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Registered on : 27/08/2010
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I'm having trouble getting mine to work. I have a logitech quickcam connect i didnt remove the ir filter or anything. So i goto radioshack pick up 3 of these http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062565 and a 10ohm resistor and i used a 5v charger from an old cellphone and wired it all up and i got my webcam all black and the leds show up but as soon as i turn my head an inch they disappear i tried sanding one down but now i can barely see that one i think i need a much finer grit sandpaper to get it smoother for more light to pass. Has anyone got this to work with the radioshack leds? should i buy fine grit sandpaper or order the sfh485p leds do they even work? |
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benmeijer |
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Class : Habitué
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Registered on : 19/07/2008
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Your led Vf = 1.28 V, your powersource = 5 V ---> using 10 ohm resistor then the current in your build = 115 mA. That is more maximum spec. of your leds.
You should use a higher value for the resistor (15 ohm).
Your leds (if they still work) should be very bright. Check it with a digital camera or phone camera! Sanding with finer grit is not a solution.
I think your logitech quickcam is the problem, remove the IR filter (and place a piece of an old floppy-disk in front of it) or use an other cam.
Did you already tried to adjust the treshold slider in FreeTrack's first screen or other webcam settings?
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Volans |
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Class : Apprenti
Posts : 39
Registered on : 14/11/2007
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@alfwok: your led appear to be a narrow angle beam, this way they disappear when you turn your head.
Sand flat the led, and sand it vigurously, you should stop when you are about 1.5-2 mm above the led chip , this way the spot will become wide.
Only sanding the whole surface of led is not enough, will help a bit, but as you notice the ir light will become fainter. So sand (or cut) the led "lens" , the rounded end, untill you'll reach desired level (as i said the sweet spot is about 1.5-2 mm above the chip), then use a smoother sandpaper to "clarify" the plastic, so light will pass easily.
Hope it helps.
Edited by Volans on 15/09/2010 at 12h49. |
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spaceinvader |
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Class : Apprenti
Posts : 14
Registered on : 25/08/2010
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@benmeijer, thanks so much for the usb diagram above. Would have been lost without it. The PTC fuse is great for piece of mind as i plug my usb into my laptop when my iphone is in the wall charger.
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pug8105 |
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Class : Apprenti
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Registered on : 26/10/2010
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can anyone point me to the right 6.8 and 10 ohm resistor and ptc fuse for running it off usb power on this website http://uk.farnell.com/ or know off another website in the uk
many thanks in advance
Edited by pug8105 on 26/10/2010 at 23h28. |
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benmeijer |
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Registered on : 19/07/2008
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Shopping Items @ http://uk.farnell.com/ for the serial build.
Resistor 10 Ohm: E24, 1/4 Watt Carbon
http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/mcf-0-25w-10r/resistor-0-25w-5-10r/dp/9339035
Resistor 6.8 Ohm: E24, 1/4 Watt Carbon
http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/mcf-0-25w-6r8/resistor-0-25w-5-6r8/dp/9339698
PTC Fuse: 100 mA Hold, 200 mA Trip
http://uk.farnell.com/tyco-electronics-raychem/rxef010/polyswitch-radial-0-1a/dp/1175857
Led: 3 X SFH485P
http://uk.farnell.com/osram/sfh485p/ir-emitter-5mm-880nm/dp/1212738?Ntt=sfh485p
Tip:
Heatshrink: 6.4 mm black, 1.2 m, 3:1
http://uk.farnell.com/pro-power/hs116-1-2m/heatshrink-3-1-6-4mm-black-1-2m/dp/1187634
Heatshrink: 2.4 mm black, 5 m, 2:1
http://uk.farnell.com/pro-power/13645/heatshrink-2-1-2-4mm-blk-5m/dp/1008441
Order extra led's, resistors or fuses, for testing, or spoil one, or simply if you want 2 builds (cap / clip).
If you use a PTC go for the 6.8 ohm resistor, because the PTC has also initial resistance.
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pug8105 |
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Class : Apprenti
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Registered on : 26/10/2010
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thanks benmeijer for ur quick reply and the reminder for the heatshrink haha all ordered now
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expensne |
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Class : Apprenti
Posts : 2
Registered on : 28/11/2010
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is it right that you nearly cant see the SFH485P light? or did I do a mistake in building the free track?
my eyetoy ps2 cam doenst detect it but the cam detect my tv remote control light
.. so what i can do now? do i need a new cam?
Edited by expensne on 01/12/2010 at 17h43. |
My setup with pics!: http://myfreetrackheadset.blogspot.com/