FreeTrack Forum
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Class : Apprenti Off line |
3 point clip, standard size, 3 IR LEDs SFH 485 with filed ends, 9V. Clip is made from 1 mm stainless steel, I scanned it and made a decal with FreeTrack logo so it looks semi-official.
 Camera is Logitech QuickCam Communicate STX, I removed the IR filter and added a removable visible light filter (one layer of old floppy disc medium).     |
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My new setup: 3 point cap using a 9v battery power supply
     More details here: http://forum.free-track.net/index.php?showtopic=716 Volans |
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Hi!
Yesterday I finally built my 3-point model! It's built around some thick copper electric wire as a base. The SFH485P leds are glued to the wire, connected in series with a resistor. Power source is usb through a mini usb connector (bought here on eBay). For cosmetic reason I added a blue mini led in parallel (with its own resistor of course). I also added a PTC (0,2A trip) in the circuit to prevent frying my motherboard. After everything was glued and wired, I wrapped it up in heat shrink tube except from one piece that wasn't reachable after the whole thing was glued. Some electric tape saved the day  All parts except the mini usb connectors were bought from www.conrad.be. My webcam is a Logitech Quickcam Pro 4000 with a single layer of floppy disk in front of the lens. Although it hasn't a monitor clip so it can be used with laptops, I bent a piece of electric wire to accomplish just that. It works really good, as long as the sun isn't shining in my room. I however ordered a very cheap webcam from eBay (expected to arrive soon) so I can use that as a dedicated Freetrack cam. And now some pictures: .JPG) .JPG) .JPG) Close-up of the usb connector: .JPG) In the middle you can see the end of the electric wire, used as a base for this model. The blue led is actually hidden behind the heat shrink tube. The model with juice: .JPG) .JPG) Logitech Quickcam Pro 400 with custom made mounting device and one layer of floppy disk: .JPG) Me very happy: .JPG) So far it's been tested in Live for Speed where it works really well. Only thing left is getting used to this new kind of gaming! EDIT: FSX is a bitch! Very hard to let it work smoothly with FT! Anyway, here is a youtube video of me testing FT in FSX: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nmGycThwgKo |
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Hey.
This one is my just yesterday did it.  |
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Works pretty well. I struggled to get the cam to attain 30fps, but it now hovers between 26-30fps, usually at 29fps.
I might remake it (3 point IR), or rather, make another one, a bit smaller and see how it performs. I'm playing ArmA with it, and I can't help but wonder if the TrackIr would be worth spending the money on. I mean this seems to be pretty responsive and works okay, but in-game it still is a bit unwieldy. I expected it to be as smooth as the mouse look function, but I find it still a little erratic and hard to control intuitively. I'll persist anyway. I've already pushed past the motion sickness I experienced after the first few hours of play. It has been a fun little enterprise and cost me only about $40 AUS.     Your forum width is too narrow!! These pics are only 800 wide. |
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This is my second "attempt" at making a track clip. It's larger than the first, and uses a lighter cable that doesn't drag everything down :/
Ignore the speaker, it's just a stand  The Power source for this one is an old Motorola phone charger(from a dead RAZR) Most of the new Moto phones have standard 5 volt chargers. When I went to the component store, they were out of IR LED's so I just got a pack of regular red ones for a third the price.  I have mine mounted to my PS2 Logitech Headset, it's a USB headset, if it matters.  I'm currently working on trying to find a Male/female set of Mini-B USB plugs and adding a switch so I can make it work off USB and turn it off without having to unplug. |
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This is my 3 point cap.
Its made with ir led's filed down for better viewing angles and runs on a 9v battery attached under the brim out of my field of view. Hat works very well.     |
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Hi, people.
Here my 3 point cap. Easy to do with instruction from the forum. I do it with 2 AA, switch (on/off). Thanks FreeTrack Team for amazing softw.   I've changed the links to your pics which didn't show up. Didja |
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Class : Apprenti Off line |
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Hi everyone, here is my own 3 points cap style helmet.
  it's a security helmet cut to save weight. it's USB powered, i used simple Red LED parralel mounted, each with a single resistance. I also use a simple quickcam logitech webcam with the IR filter removed. After a few tweak in free-track , the system works perfectly !! |
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Project: "Teletubbie-6-DOF-3-Point-Capstyle-Medusa-5.1-Headset"
just finished it yesterday The LEDs are completely removable from the Headset. I just used 3 Star Trek Micromachine stands and a piece of Watercooling tube, thats about it.       -> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8R5gMzkXIEo :-) |
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Off line Www |
It looks to work well !
Well done ! Rémy  |
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actually it does NOT work that good...
 it works fine as long as i have the cam below my TFT on the Table and only while it's dark outside (pay atention to that stupid window directly behind me in the youtube vid...  )And if i place the webcam above my TFT the axis are completely screwed up (center LED is to low i think). If i put my steeringwheel on the table and the cam behind it = no visiual contact!  So i have to place the cam on top of the TFT... I think i will have to redo that whole thing again and put the left and right IR-LEDs more in front and remove that watercooling tube from the center one to remove the distance. actually the watercooling tube reflects the IR-Light and confuses FreeTrack even more... so better put something black over it if you want to use some kind of tube by the way the looking glasses of my mother screw up FreeTrack detection too, seems to me that everything transparent reflects the IR Light and gets the detection confused... //edit: here is the prototype version 2 ;P doesnt look very nice yet but works a lot better than the teletubbie design.    |
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Here is my 3pt clip IR Leds model made using a black foam board, which thickness allowed for the IR Led to be fed through the board and bent twice (right angle Z) on either side and secure with epoxy glue (Araldite). The holes were made with a simple message board pin. I based my dimension to 60x60 and 80x80 3pt clip settings.
So besides an exacto cutter, a ruler, a pencil and soldering iron the required tools and skills are bare minimum. Note that the glue once cured acted as a strengthening of the mounted LEs onto the otherwise soft board. Epoxy could have been applied all over as a finish to give strength to the base foam material but it has been fine as is. I used this for four months solid and event sat on it a coupe of times and is still going strong. It was much easier to make than my first 3pt made from a soldered cloth hanger wire and mounted onto a cap. The time to cut out with care for details and soldering of the slider switch, limiting resistor and 9V battery clip took all in all under 2hours. Enjoy, Donat-Pierre        |
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My 3 point cap pictures taken from crappy WebCam: (crappy but it works very well with Free-Track
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