FreeTrack Forum

Hi guys,

I have an autoimmune disease that gives me a lot of pain… Especially in my arms. I want to use LED tracking to control the mouse in both games and on the PC in general (desktop use).

However, I'm stuck at the very beginning! I don't know much about electronics. I bought some items which I have specified at the bottom of this page.

1st thing I tried was connecting 2 different LEDs (1 after the other) straight to a single rechargeable battery and using my phone camera to check. Nothing lit up so I moved on.

I tried setting it up as per the serial build here. Using USB power from the power point. http://forum.free-track.net/index.php?showtopic=1856

I believe I am using a 10 ohm resistor (Brown, black, black, gold). I see no lights whatsoever using my iPhone camera or the PS3 eye that I bought.

I'm not sure if the resistor is even working as my multimeter seems to say 5.2 V are coming from the wire after the resistor …

I really have no idea what I'm doing with electronics. Did I buy the wrong stuff? Is there any way to get it working with what I have or do I need to buy something else?

I'm also not sure which leg is negative and which is positive. I tried connecting with the short leg as positive and then reconnecting with the short leg as negative with no change.

I also jumped on eBay and bought some stuff on there (listed below) but it will take 4 to 6 weeks to arrive.

Any help is very very much appreciated.

If I can't get this working is anyone willing to build one and send it to me? I will pay reasonable rates and of course all shipping to Sydney Australia..... Obviously I would prefer to build it with what I have and get things happening ASAP though.


I have the below 2 items purchased from Jay car in Australia today (I decided I couldn't wait for the stuff to come from China).

1.      5mm Infrared Transmitting LED
5MM EMITTING DIODELooks like a 5mm LED & has a blue transparent lens.Specifications:- Forward Current (If): 50mA max - Peak forward current (Ip): 1.2A- Forward Voltage (VF): 1.2V @ 20mA - Reverse Voltage (VR): 5V max- Power Dissipation (Pd): 100mW max - Viewing Angle: 30°- Peak Spectral Wavelength(IR): 940nm @ 20mA * Spectral Bandwidth (DI): 50nm@20mA- Material: GaAs




2.        1/4 Watt Carbon Film Resistors - 300 Pieces

This pack includes five of virtually each value from 1 Ohm to 10 Meg. Sixty different values. All resistors are bandoleered for easy sorting. Values supplied are 1, 1.5, 2.2, 3.3, 4.7, 5.6, 10, 12, 15, 22, 27, 33, 39, 47, 56, 68, 82, 100, 120, 180, 220, 270, 330, 470, 560, 680, 820, 1k, 1k2, 1k5, 1k8, 2k2, 3k3, 3k9, 4k7, 5k6, 8k2, 10k, 12k, 15k, 18k, 22k, 27k, 33k, 39k, 47k, 56k, 68k, 82k, 100k, 120k, 150k, 220k, 270k, 330k, 470k, 1M, 2M7, 4M7 & 10M.





I ordered the below on eBay from China last week but will take weeks to get here:

1/4w Watt 0.25W 6.8 R Ohm Metal Film R Resistor
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/390836979332?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

10 PCS 5mm 940nm IR Launch Infrared Diode LED Lamps Bulbs
Emitted Colour : Infrared    Lens Colour: Water Clear    Forward Voltage (V) : 1.2-1.4V.
   Wavelength (nm): 940nm.     Size: 5mm
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251526642844?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648


10 Pcs 10mm 300mW Infrared IR LED Night Light Vision 850nm Luminous Diode
Diameter: 10mm    Material: GaAsP     Forward voltage: 1.5—2V    Backward voltage: 5V
Forward current: 20mA    Wavelength: 850nm     Angle: 30 degree       Luminous power: 300mw
Frequency characteristic: Low frequency      Emitted color: Infrared ray
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/321387775455?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649



Thanks for any help.

Regards,

Frustrated                    

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dzYVhF9pjHA&feature=youtu.be

I used my multimeter and checked each point in the circuit (Hope that's the right terminology ).

I recorded it on my iPhone and uploaded to you tube in case that helps anyone to help me.

Hi,

let's try to go through this step by step:
If you connect the LEDs one by one with a 10Ohm resistor and 5V you probably burned up the first, because 10Ohms is using with three LEDs at the same time.

Also the LEDs you used do not have the same specs as the SFH485:

5MM EMITTING DIODELooks like a 5mm LED & has a blue transparent lens.Specifications:- Forward Current (If): 50mA max - Peak forward current (Ip): 1.2A- Forward Voltage (VF): 1.2V @ 20mA - Reverse Voltage (VR): 5V max- Power Dissipation (Pd): 100mW max - Viewing Angle: 30°- Peak Spectral Wavelength(IR): 940nm @ 20mA


Unfortunately I can't open your Ebay page because of "legal restriction for your country blabla..." to check the data for your second China import...

So I try to explain it using your first build:
We need to drive the LEDs with their forward current: 50mA, knowing that their forward voltage is 1.2V
To find the right resistor:

R = ( 5V – 3 x 1.2V) / 50mA
R = 28Ohm

So next to 28Ohm you got the 27Ohm in your collection. Use this one.

Connect the three LEDs and the resistor in a serial circuit bevor connecting the power supply.
To find the polarity check the inside of the LEDs and the flat spot:



...remember that you can't see ir light with your eyes, so you have to check it through the image of your mobile or webcam.

Try again and give us news.

Optionally for your arm problems you can try this one:
 FaceTrackNoIR
...which is not that precisely than Freetrack for games but gives good results as well.

there are a few guys(posts) who build and sell ir-models.
maybe a good alternative instead of building yourself

http://forum.free-track.net/index.php?showtopic=4153

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yoEuw3Manl0

http://www.ebay.com/usr/delan_engineering

Hi guys,

Just wanted to say thank you so much for your help!

I'm not sure why but I think I figured out what my main problem was… Besides having the wrong resistor in my 1st build.

My iPhone 5 does not show up these LEDs when they are powered!! I wired everything up as per your instructions and my phone could see nothing! I tried different LEDs and still nothing. I was 100% sure everything was right and could see nothing, I was so frustrated.    

I was just about to buy one from one of the sellers mentioned but for some reason I decided to try the PS3 eye and suddenly I could see the LEDs on the screen! Of course, only when the LEDs are pointed at the screen, they cannot be seen from the side which I did not know either.

No idea why my phone doesn't show them when the PS3 eye does (even when the LEDs are pointed at the phone camera)…

I've quickly realised that these LEDs are narrow field LEDs and that I need diffusers. I have spent time searching electronic stores and online for fimo diffusers. No one in the store had any idea what I was talking about :-). I finally stumbled across a page on this forum telling me that they are home-made! So I will be buying fimo clay and building my own. One question though, do I still need to file down the LEDs or will just putting a diffuser on the end be enough?

I'm stumbling through the process but believe I can definitely get this done now. Thank you both for your contributions and help.

No idea why my phone doesn't show them when the PS3 eye does (even when the LEDs are pointed at the phone camera)…

maybe is the ir-filter to strong in your phone for the leds you use.

One question though, do I still need to file down the LEDs or will just putting a diffuser on the end be enough?

I think it is just something you must try.If it works with the diffuser without filing the leds down, then don't file.
You must be able to move your head max 30 degrees to the left or right without loosing the dots in freetrack or facetracknoir.

Hi,

Yes, seems that there is a strong ir block filter inbuilt.
...thx for this information, (just another point on my list: "Why do not buy an iPhone")  

Your choice: If you file down the LEDs you do not need diffusers.
A nail file or sandpaper will be sufficient for this:



Be aware that you do not need more than +/-20° for a comfortable tracking.  So the 30° beamangle for the LEDs  that Stormrider mentioned are quit enaugh. No need to turn the head away from your screen.

Hi,

Yes I guess the iPhone 5 has a strong IR filter. It's a work phone so I don't mind its free :-).

I filed down the LEDs but am unfortunately losing tracking when moving my head up and down and sometimes to the left and right.This improves if I sit extremely close to the camera.

I tried making the camera filter less powerful but that just lets in daylight and then it doesn't work.

I tried to make the fimo diffusers but I guess mine were too fat because no light seems to come through?

Are the recommended LEDs (SFH485) much brighter and track better? Where do I buy them online that posts internationally?

Hi kormart,
I don't know if those sfh485 should work better.
The things I learned from my own experiance is that a ps3-eye is not the easiest camera to use for freetrack.
But if you get it working you, it works great thats for sure.
The problem you can have with a ps3-eye is that some types have a to strong ir-filter and you need to remove it.And then you can have the problem, which type do you have.There is a type of lense you can't remove.
I know a site where they explain the difference.
http://www.peauproductions.com/blog/2009/04/17/the-two-types-of-ps3-eye-stock-lenses-pictures-of-each/

They sell also stuff for ps3-eyes(lenses, filters)
http://www.peauproductions.com/store/


These are my settings for the ps3-eye,


The rtoubles you have with tracking can be caused by a few things:
1. wrong ps3-eye settings
2. to strong ir-filter in ps3-eye
3. ir-leds not strong enough
4. wrong day-light filter
5. to little viewing angle of your leds.

The first thing I should try is, try if it works better in a dark room.If that solves your problem, we have to make a bigger difference between the normal light and your ir-led light.
Or try to get a better filter to block the normal light and let the ir-light go through.Or get rid of the ir-filter in the ps3-eye.But removing the ir-filter is most of the time a problem.

Hi,

Sorry for my delay in response it's been a busy week. Thank you very much for your help.

I still had similar issues in a dark room. I believe it was a little bit better.

I thought the PS3 eye was the best camera to use because of the high frame rate… That's why I got one.

Going to the link you provided it appears that I have the good one. The lens definitely appears rounded. So I guess I try and remove the IR filter on the weekend.

What is the best camera to use? Because I might be in the market for a new one if I break this one :-)

In regards to the daylight filter I tried using an old x-ray which seemed to be too strong so I am using layers of green and blue cellophane which seems to work better. I use just enough layers so that I can't see myself in the camera image.


When I tried using the same settings as you that you posted in your screenshot I didn't even need a filter at night with the lights on and I could barely see the IR lights at all and they were not detected.

hi,
sorry, I forgot to mention that my ps3-eye is modified.My ir-filter is removed and I use a filter for blocking normal light.I bought that filter and prepared lens at that shop I mentioned.
I started with a trust webcam, it was not so good.
Then I tried a ms vx3000 webcam.The ir-filter was easaly to remove, but I had only 30fps.But it worked good enough for me.
I found a cheap ps3-eye of the good type.When I tried to take out the filter it turned out not to be the good type.The cam was ruined.
So I decided to just buy a prepared lens and that filter instead of try to find an other ps3-eye and maybe ruine it again.

What is the best camera to use? Because I might be in the market for a new one if I break this one :-)

Maybe do just like I did, order that filter and prepared lens at that shop.For me it was someting like 40 dollars with shipping costs to the Netherlands.If I had to by a new ps3-eye it costs also something like that.(at least it was worth to me).

When I tried using the same settings as you that you posted in your screenshot I didn't even need a filter at night with the lights on and I could barely see the IR lights at all and they were not detected.

Maybe because I did use the brightlight trick.Turn everthing on auto, shine with a very bright light in the cam and turn al the auto functions of.And yours has got that ir-filter and my ps3-eye is modified.

With freetrack you need to change the dpi-setting in win7(what I use)
and sometime you can get conflicts with other software.So I moved over to facetracknoir.Facetracknoir has got a pointtracker plugin so it can work just like Freetrack( not only with face recognition).For me facetracknoir works better, but freetrack has some better functions.



filterSpoilerhttp://peauproductions.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=89&zenid=c0a788404da326cd652497d2cf5a659c
The thickness of this filter is a millimeter thicker than the typical glass m12 filters and a millimeter thinner than the OEM filters, making the resulting image using an OEM mount out of focus.For me this was not a problem.

lensSpoilerhttp://peauproductions.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=25

Hi,

Thanks for the advice. I guess I will try to remove the filter over the weekend and see what happens.

If worst comes to worst I guess I will try and buy from that store.

Hi,

I removed the IR filter. I used a soldering iron to melt the plastic around the filter because of my arm pain it was not possible to dig it out for 20 minutes with a knife.

I got it out within a couple of minutes.

Now connecting the camera with no day filter the picture is extremely blurry. Is this normal? Is this what I was expecting? Or did I stuff something up?

I also ground down the LEDs a little bit more on my headset. I must have gone too far? As now none of them will light up. Is there an easy way to determine which one is dead? They are all soldered in place and are wrapped in a lot of electrical tape. It will be really annoying to do the whole thing again…

Hi,
the wrong type ps3-eye has got the ir-filter on a part of the lens.If you got the good one, the image can be a bit of out of focus.You can see for example someone but can't see it good enough to recognise.
If your blurry is like, you just see nothing.You probably also removed a bit of the normal lense(Just what happened to me).

How to check if your leds work?
If you apply 1,2V( less is better) to one of your leds it must light up.Your leds have a forwarding voltage of 1,2V( if Iam correct) so applying 1.2v should let them light up on the max.Don't do it to long.Rechargable batteries have 1,2V and you can use those to test.
Keep in mind leds are diodes, that means they have a + and a - side.If you connect them good  they light-up otherwise they don't.
ir-led off

connected with just one 1,2V rechargeable battery


First try to get your leds working and then take a look at your ps3-eye.We only need three good visible dots of your model.Maybe isn't the blurriness that much of a problem.

It is all working now.

Thank you so much for your help! I definitely could not have done this without you.

I think I just need to play with the curves settings to get it set up right so that I don't have to move my head so far my neck almost snaps :-)