FreeTrack Forum

Hi,

As the topic says, I'm planning to make a freetrack with a PS3 eye (40 Euro)
+ the SFH485P IR-LED's (3 DOF) with USB adaptor as described in the sticky topic.

Will this work without having to remove the filter in the PS3 eye camera?
Or do I have to get it out? I'm planning to buy it next week, so I'm guessing this will be the newer version of the PS3 eye camera.

And what are the best dimensions for the tracking head? I mean: what distince has there have to be between the 3 lightbulbs?

Cheers and thanks in advance!

mine is the new version and you don't need to remove the filter but you need camera film or it will not work during the day.
Send me a PM i have all the parts you need to built a tracker.

And what are the best dimensions for the tracking head? I mean: what distince has there have to be between the 3 lightbulbs?

Go for the default dimensions you can see in the model-section. Small difference are are not critical as long as you set up the real dimensions in the cases when you have finished your mount.

Great! Thanks!
Next week I'll try to start!
Does the inside of a flopy disk work as well as filter for the daylight?
And could you just tape it on and take it back off if you wan to use the camera for the PS3? I think I've got all materials for the making of the tracker.
I'll make it together with a friend of mine and we'll plan it out in detail than!

Further questions will follow if needed!
Thanks for the advice!
Cheers

Floppy disk isn't that ideal. See: http://forum.free-track.net/index.php?showtopic=3205&message=16902

Try other daylight filter mentioned here.
I got good results with green and red filter from cheep 3D-glasses one above the other.
As long as you don't modifies the webcam you can use it like usual.

Steph @ 08/06/2012 - 16h24 a dit:

Floppy disk isn't that ideal. See: http://forum.free-track.net/index.php?showtopic=3205&message=16902

Try other daylight filter mentioned here.
I got good results with green and red filter from cheep 3D-glasses one above the other.
As long as you don't modifies the webcam you can use it like usual.

Ha :s Thanks for letting me know, but if I read the graph correctly it absorbs a big portion of visual light right? And as long is the intensity of the LED's is high enough it should word not?
I just tested with my webcam: put the floppy disk in front, and used a remote control as IR-LED. Everything was black except the light bulb of the TV remote controller.

We'll try and start with that setting of the floppy disk and if we want to get better resulst we should use the 3D glass filters? Or the two layers of photofilm layer?
Thanks again!
Grtz

Can anyone please check if this set-up will work and if it's safe?
I found an adapter to power up a cellphone:
it says:
INPUT:      AC 100-240V/50-60 Hz / 65mA
OUTPUT:   DC 5V/350mA

I used the wizard and gave in these numbers:

3 LEDS Clip or Cap
POWER SUPPLY     Voltage value (V):     5
POWER SUPPLY  Power supply family:   Unregulatted Power Supply (IE: power adapter)
LED     Forward Voltage (V)   1,5  (I used the values I found on the stickysubject)
LED  Forward Current (mA) 50     (I used the values I found on the stickysubject)

The wizzardresult is as followed:


My questions:
Is the power that were working with dangerous?
Which resistor do I need to buy than on farnell.com? The 70 or 75 Ohm?
Could anyone point it out to me because I can't seem to find those resistors..
Should I put in a PT fuse (see link below) just to make sure? Although the adapter will be connected to the regular power net and not my computer.

http://be.farnell.com/te-connectivity-raychem/rxef010/polyswitch-radial-0-1a/dp/1175857?Ntt=1175857

Edit.

I found an adapter to power up a cellphone:
it says:
INPUT:      AC 100-240V/50-60 Hz / 65mA
OUTPUT:   DC 5V/350mA

Can you say if it is a switch mode power supply or with transformer?
Or what's the model?
Most cell-phone power supplys now are switch mode, so better regulated.
In this case you do not need to go for unregulated power supply in the assembly wizard but for regulated. Otherwise you do not get 50mA cause of +30% adjustment, that doesn't really exist.

Also you got SFH485P IR-LED's which can be powered up to 80mA without any problems, you will have a better luminous intensity and better tracking.
Best way to figure it out, will be to measure it.

Is the power that were working with dangerous?

No, as long as you stand on the DC Output side it's not dangerous for your health either the LED's.

Which resistor do I need to buy than on farnell.com? The 70 or 75 Ohm?Could anyone point it out to me because I can't seem to find those resistors..

Resistors are available in series http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Preferred_number
The assembly wizard gives you the next value from resistor choice in E24 series. In your choice it will be 75 Ohm. But referring to what I mentioned above about switch mode power supply's get some 6.8 and 10 Ohm and try it out.

Should I put in a PT fuse (see link below) just to make sure? Although the adapter will be connected to the regular power net and not my computer.

No, it's not necessary.

Gian92 @ 12/06/2012 - 17h17 a dit:

Blackbird @ 12/06/2012 - 15h41 a dit:

LED     Forward Voltage (V)   1,5  (I used the values I found on the stickysubject)
LED  Forward Current (mA) 50     (I used the values I found on the stickysubject)

Get those values, then come back.

1.5 V is close to the maximum voltage for IR LEDs (the maximum being 1.63 V); many are 1.2 V (I'm talking about the maximum nominal voltage).

First of all, thanks for the fast reply,
but how do I get those values? I mean, the only thing I know is that I'm using these LEDs http://be.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1212738.
How exactly do I get those values...
Sorry I'm not familiar with electricity...

Grtz

Blackbird @ 12/06/2012 - 17h36 a dit:

Gian92 @ 12/06/2012 - 17h17 a dit:

Blackbird @ 12/06/2012 - 15h41 a dit:

LED     Forward Voltage (V)   1,5  (I used the values I found on the stickysubject)
LED  Forward Current (mA) 50     (I used the values I found on the stickysubject)

Get those values, then come back.

1.5 V is close to the maximum voltage for IR LEDs (the maximum being 1.63 V); many are 1.2 V (I'm talking about the maximum nominal voltage).

First of all, thanks for the fast reply,
but how do I get those values? I mean, the only thing I know is that I'm using these LEDs http://be.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1212738.
How exactly do I get those values...
Sorry I'm not familiar with electricity...

Grtz

Sorry, I didn't read you'll be using SFH485P; my fault. Follow Steph's advices.

Steph @ 12/06/2012 - 17h29 a dit:

I found an adapter to power up a cellphone:
it says:
INPUT:      AC 100-240V/50-60 Hz / 65mA
OUTPUT:   DC 5V/350mA

Can you say if it is a switch mode power supply or with transformer?
Or what's the model?
Most cell-phone power supplys now are switch mode, so better regulated.
In this case you do not need to go for unregulated power supply in the assembly wizard but for regulated. Otherwise you do not get 50mA cause of +30% adjustment, that doesn't really exist.

Also you got SFH485P IR-LED's which can be powered up to 80mA without any problems, you will have a better luminous intensity and better tracking.
Best way to figure it out, will be to measure it.

Is the power that were working with dangerous?

No, as long as you stand on the DC Output side it's not dangerous for your health either the LED's.

Which resistor do I need to buy than on farnell.com? The 70 or 75 Ohm?Could anyone point it out to me because I can't seem to find those resistors..

Resistors are available in series http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Preferred_number
The assembly wizard gives you the next value from resistor choice in E24 series. In your choice it will be 75 Ohm. But referring to what I mentioned above about switch mode power supply's get some 6.8 and 10 Ohm and try it out.

Should I put in a PT fuse (see link below) just to make sure? Although the adapter will be connected to the regular power net and not my computer.

No, it's not necessary.

This is the adapter:
http://www.carkitcenter.be/product/66458/133092/category-184129-top-10-plug-&-play-carkit/nokia-ac-3e-thuislader.html
Hopfully that helps... I also got some other adapters that I can use if necessary, or will this one be powerfull enough?

Not a problem of power, only of regulated output or not.
Linear power supply's are often unregulated, so their voltage output varies significantly with load. That's why they are given ~30% more voltage in idle.

I think it's a switch mode, so go on with 6.8Ohm to get ~70mA or 10Ohm for 50mA.
Get both to try, resistors aren't expensive at all.

Farnell:
6.8Ohm
10Ohms

If you have a multimeter you can verify current flow in circuit.

Thanks a lot for the fast reply and usefull help!
Couldn't find those resistors on my own...  
Not quite sure if I fully understand what your saying,
but thinks I'll be getting the following:

Allready got the PS3 eye cam   we'll try flopy disk first and/or some photofilm as filter
Hat
Wire
The resistors
The LEDs
maybe some heatshrink as sugested in the sticky subject
everything needed for soldering
and that should hopefully do the trick.  

Or am I forgetting something?

I'll keep you updated, and chances are rather high I'll
ask some more questions whilst building

Cheers!

Maybe a stupid question:

I'll have 5V than comming from my adapter,
and 6.8Ohm will give ~70mA or 10Ohm gives 50mA.

This current (50-70 mA)  will go through each LED, which is well below the 100 mA maximum if I'm correct.
And the voltage over each LED will be 5V/3 = 1,66V correct?

But the first light in the circuit would give a higher intensity not and
won't this effect the tracking?

Just trying to understand...  
Anyway, I'll try to order everything tomorrow or the day after if one of u guys approves my list.

Would this be a good heat shrink?
http://be.farnell.com/pro-power/hs116-1-2m/heatshrink-3-1-6-4mm-black-1-2m/dp/1187634?Ntt=1187634
Cheers