> Total Noob needs your help
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Pngiaca |
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Class : Apprenti
Posts : 14
Registered on : 25/05/2012
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So I am a total and complete noob when it comes to electronics, but I really want to use FreeTrack for my Aces High 2 combat sim. game.
I think I can get everything assembled and build the actual kit, once I get all the parts together.
Can you please let me know if the parts list below is accurate/adequate?
- Resistors(These are my biggest uncertainty, not sure how the OHMs work): http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DKSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=115097417&uq=634735449840040425
- LEDS: http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DKSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=115095518&uq=634735449840040425
- Webcam: http://compare.ebay.com/like/370610027209?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&_lwgsi=y&cbt=y
- Power Source: http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/3v.html
I can figure out the rest of the wiring, soldering, shrink wrap, ect. But I am not comfortable enough with the electronics to know that what I have listed up there is correct.
Again, any advice will be greatly appreaciated.
Thank you,
Pete
Edited by Pngiaca on 25/05/2012 at 21h39. |
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Steph |
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Class : Moderator
Posts : 656
Registered on : 16/11/2007
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Hi,
for the resistors- and LED-link on Digi-Key I get a "Part not found" message.
If it was this one:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/SFH485/475-1112-ND/607342
it's ok.
Resistors depending on power source.
For a 5V Power-source 10 Ohm resistor is good.
I do not recommend the 3V coin cell holder as it doesn't last long and cells are expensive. Using any cheap 5V USB charger is better.
Go on with this tutorial:
http://forum.free-track.net/index.php?showtopic=1856&hl=usb
for serial build.
Use the USB charger and you do not need PTC-fuse.
There are problems with the C-Serie of Logitech webcam in some cases as they do not always keep the settings.
Better go for another one. |
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Gian92 |
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Class : Habitué
Posts : 92
Registered on : 08/04/2012
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Talking about cameras (key equipment for FreeTrack), I absolutely recommend a PS3 Eye (not the old "EyeToy" version). It is a 100/200-USD-worth piece of technology sold for much less because of Sony logistics and mass selling. It's a total bargain for what it has to offer; I myself have bought one for 7 GBP at the well-known and imaginary bay a month ago.
Some resolutions and relative framerate:
320 x 240 at 125 FPS
640 x 480 at 75 FPS
Moreover, I'd recommend the 640 x 480 resolution to reduce the jerky movements.
Edited by Gian92 on 26/05/2012 at 20h08.
“Ordem e progresso” - Brazilian flag
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Pngiaca |
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Class : Apprenti
Posts : 14
Registered on : 25/05/2012
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Ok, thank you for your help. I am going to go with the PS3 eye, and the serial build. I didn't want the extra wiring to be coming off of the headphones, but I thinking I would rather have that than a having to hold 2 AA batteries on it. Thats why I was thinking of using the coin batteries, for their size, but if they are not a good option for this, then I dont want to use them either. I believe I found both the LEDs, and the Resistors I need from digi-key.com.
Did you say the PTC fuse shown on the tutorial diagram is optional?
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Steph |
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Did you say the PTC fuse shown on the tutorial diagram is optional?
Yes, it is, if you use a USB-Power-Adapter or any other power source than your motherboard. In what I like to discourage people. Microcontroller can be damaged in nanoseconds, even with USB-Sticks. Better stay on the save side.
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Pngiaca |
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Class : Apprenti
Posts : 14
Registered on : 25/05/2012
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So you are saying it is a better idea to just plug the system directly into a wall outlet, instead of using your computer as the power source, as the risk of damaging your computer is not worth the benefit using it as the power source?
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Gian92 |
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Class : Habitué
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Pngiaca @ 29/05/2012 - 15h10 a dit: I am going to go with the PS3 eye, and the serial build.
Choose the circuit scheme wisely taking into account the voltages of all the components since you're getting your stuff from the net (a single shot).
Steps:
1. Choice of LEDs
2. Choice of batteries and their configuration (either in serial or parallel, taking into account the LEDs voltage)
3. Choice of the LEDs installation, either in serial or parallel depending on battery and LEDs voltages
4. Choice of resistors according to voltages of batteries, LEDs and configuration (serial or parallel)
So model of batteries, battery size and configuration (serial or parallel) of them and LEDs should be a tradeoff.
Pngiaca @ 29/05/2012 - 15h10 a dit: Did you say the PTC fuse shown on the tutorial diagram is optional?
It's not optional, it depends on the case. If you connect the LEDs to your computer through USB (or to other fragile and electrically-sensitive circuits) you should use the fuse, otherwise it's unnecessary.
However, be careful if you choose the USB method, there are some known issues which might occur (especially on old computers) when plugging non-standard-compliant USB devices, and frankly frying a PC for a pettiness isn't the highest achievement given by inspiration.
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Pngiaca |
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Class : Apprenti
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Registered on : 25/05/2012
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Ok, thank you. I think I will not plug this into my computer, it is not worth the risk.
However, doing a little more research, I see that I could also just purchase this:
http://www.thehumansolution.com/trackirpro-trackclippro.html?utm_source=Google%2BShopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google%2BShopping&gdftrk=gdfV2929_a_7c132_a_7c5187_a_7cNAT401&gclid=CO2RwvLepbACFdMAQAodtBP_xg
This seems like, although obvisouls more expensive than a home build, a solid choice which is already perfectly set up for this, and would take out any possible malfunctions caused by me building my own.
Have you guys any experience with the Trackclip option? I figure I could use this and the PS3 Eye and the freetrack software together. |
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Pngiaca |
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Class : Apprenti
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Registered on : 25/05/2012
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Also, I am reading that some PS3 Eyes are better than others? Can you please explain? Where can I find the correct one to purchase?
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Gian92 |
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Class : Habitué
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Yes, the TrackClip Pro will do the job as well.
About the PS3 Eye, there are two versions: an old "good" one, and a new "bad" one.
Here's an interesting article about it.
Practically the old one, which has a spherical outermost objective lens, has a removable infrared cut-off filter (a hot-mirror) whilst in the new one it can't be removed.
Anyway, some members have their working tracking system without having touched the PS3 Eye, but it heavily depends on LEDs wavelength.
Edited by Gian92 on 29/05/2012 at 17h17.
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Gian92 |
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Thanks to PS3 Eye sensor size and mounting standard you could even replace its objective lenses, as I did.
Its lens mount standard is M12 and its sensor size is 1/4", just in case.
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Pngiaca |
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Class : Apprenti
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Registered on : 25/05/2012
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Do you know of anywhere that is still selling the "old" version?
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Gian92 |
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If you want total certainty, here. But it's expensive as hell.
Better go elsewhere and ask if the outermost objective lens is either spherical or flat.
But beware: unless you find a way to remove the coating from the hot-mirror to keep it, after removing it you won't be able to focus again till you buy a new objective lenses since the hot-mirror, with its refractive power, is part of the optical system. In essence you'll get a cam always set to macro, although for FreeTrack it isn't a huge problem.
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Pngiaca |
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Class : Apprenti
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Registered on : 25/05/2012
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Ok, thank you. I am hoping I am one of the lucky ones who does not need to modigy the camera at all, but even if I do, I am really only interested in using this camera for freetrack, so I dont much care as long as freetrack works.
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Gian92 |
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Yeah, it's a good idea not to touch it and see if it works without changes first.
Good luck 
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